Dar es Salaam in 24 Hours
A juxtaposition of Tanzania's old and new/Shayera Dark
Dar es Salaam, the former capital of Tanzania, still retains the benefits and mien of a capital city. It remains home to the vice president, embassies, malls, international hotel chains, company headquarters and gleaming new skyscrapers. You’d be hard-pressed not to find ongoing construction at every corner, proving playing second fiddle to the capital Dodoma is not in the works for the ‘abode of peace’.
One striking feature about Dar es Salaam is the fact that, unlike most African cities where the imported language of colonialists holds sway over indigenous ones, Swahili is more widely spoken than English, the country’s second official language. This uniqueness stems from the German colonial administrators’ decision to encourage the use of Swahili among the people of Tanganyika, Tanzania’s former name, rather than German as they feared mastery of the latter would give Tanganyikans access to official documents, posing an existential threat.
Moreover, when the British took over Tanganyika from Germany after World War 1, they made Swahili the sole medium of instruction in primary schools throughout the country and supported its use among various ethnic groups, which in turn established national cohesion and helped the liberation party gain support for independence. Upon independence in 1961, effective campaigns further promoted the language in lower courts and parliamentary debates.
Today, more Tanzanians speak Swahili than English even though the latter is the language of trade and politics continues to be used as the medium of instruction at the secondary and tertiary levels. Consequently, foreign investors have cited the country’s low proficiency in English as a barrier and are often forced to hire staff from neighbouring Uganda and Kenya.
As a West African touring Dar es Salaam, getting around was a little challenging due to language barriers. I couldn’t ask directions from people on the street and would wander into business places to find a bilingual Tanzanian. Once, after spending five minutes trying to explain to an Uber driver not to end the ride at my first destination and the second, we had to stop at a bank to find a translator.
Dar, in terms of tourist attractions, has precious little to do or see as my host would attest on my second night. The city, bordered by the Indian Ocean, is a stopover for tourists journeying ahead to Zanzibar—the quaint archipelago a flight or ferry away—or going on safaris to national parks on its outskirts.
That said, there’s still plenty to see in the city if you have 24 hours to spare.
The National Museum, Shabban Robert Street
Located in the city centre and opened to the public since 1940, the national museum is home to the national gallery and archaeological discoveries like the famous fossil of the nutcracker man (zinjanthropus) from Olduvai Gorge.
National Museum/Shayera Dark
On the first floor, paintings, carvings and relics from precolonial times adorn the walls of the gallery. Items from Tanzania’s past from German and British colonial rule through to the struggle for independence are also displayed on the corridor.
The balcony overs a view of vintage cars driven by the first president and some colonial administrators, abstract sculptures dedicated to the twelve Tanzanians who died in the 1998 bombing of US embassy in Dar es Salaam, and the memorial museum once dedicated to King George V.
Vintage cars/Shayera Dark
Sieve and plates/Shayera Dark
Refurbished and expanded in 1963 and 2009, the museum has since been rededicated to the history of Tanzania. And while there isn’t much to see inside, you can appreciate the Omani-styled architecture, a reminder of their rule along the Swahili coast, and the colourful wall tiles at the entrance.
Entrance fee: 6,500 TZS. (US$1=2,272 TZS)
Samaki Samaki, Samaro Avenue
A short stroll from the National Museum is the Diamond Plaza, where the rustic restaurant is situated. Though Samaki means fish in Swahili, the menu offers an array of fresh seafood and succulent side dishes. Thrill your palate with the local dish of grilled bananas paired with octopus curry and a refreshing glass of fresh juice—or a stiff drink, if you’re so inclined.
Grilled bananas with octopus curry and veggies/Shayera Dark
Service is moderately-paced, and the large windowless frames will entice you to people-watch and assuage your hunger… for a little while.
People-gazing/Shayera Dark
Sight-seeing in the city centre
With your appetite sated, take advantage of proximity and walk through the city centre. Located between Samora Avenue and Maktaba Street is the famous Askari Monument depicted as a soldier pointing his bayonet towards the harbour. The bronze statue pays tribute to fallen World War 1 soldiers. Also, a stone throw away are the old post office dating back to colonial times, the late 19th century, red-roofed Azania Front Lutheran Church and the Gothic-style Saint Joseph's Metropolitan Cathedral completed in 1902, both of which were built by German missionaries.
Azania Front Lutheran Church/Shayera Dark
Dar/Shayera Dark
The Village Museum, Ally Hassan Mwinyi Road
Take a taxi to the open air museum and saunter down memory lane to pre-colonial times. Established in 1996, the Village Museum curates huts from Tanzania’s many tribes, some of which are equipped with beds, gourds, stools and other traditional items. If you’re not claustrophobic and dangerously low entryways aren’t bothersome, then feel free to venture into the past.
Village Museum/Shayera Dark
Traditional meeting place/Shayera Dark
Scattered across the vast compound are medicinal herbs used by traditional healers and trees, like the mwarobaini, believed to cure at least forty illnesses. For an additional fee, visitors are treated to a few minutes of traditional Tanzanian dance.
A traditional dhow portrays Asian influence on East African coastal culture/Shayera Dark
Entrance fee: 6,500 TZS. Add 2,000 TZS for the traditional dance.
News Café, Haile Selassie Road
Located in the affluent neighbourhood of Oyster Bay, News Café is one of many eateries in the area where you can relax and order contemporary meals, cocktails or indulge your sweet tooth with decadent desserts. There’s also a small sitting area outside for alfresco dining.
Can’t go wrong with this saliva-inducing brownie topped with vanilla ice-cream/Shayera Dark
Souvenir Shopping, Oyster Bay
Adjacent to DoubleTree hotel on Slipway Road are rudimentary stalls selling woven baskets of various sizes and designs. Grab a quick souvenir, but be ready to pay a steep price. However, If you still have time on your hands, visit the Tinga Tinga Arts Co-operative Society, Morogoro Stores on Mzinga Way for traditional Tanzanian paintings. The art is reasonably priced and you won’t be harried into buying anything.
Woven baskets/Shayera Dark
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